Favre Leuba is one of the oldest names in watchmaking, with roots going back to 1737, and also one of the more frequently interrupted. Its latest chapter began in 2024 with a global relaunch under CEO Patrik Hoffmann, who has spent the time since reworking the brand's vintage tool watches for everyday wear rather than expedition duty. The Deep Raider Day Date is the clearest example of that thinking, and it now arrives in three two-tone versions. Monochrome covered the release on 6 August 2026, with full specifications and pricing.
From the 1964 Deep Blue to an everyday diver
The blueprint is the 1964 Deep Blue, a 200m diver with a Bakelite bezel that has since spawned several sub-collections, including the faithful Deep Blue Revival and the more modern Deep Raider Renaissance. The Day Date shares the Renaissance's contemporary look but leans further into daily use. It keeps a 300m depth rating, but at 40mm across, 12.5mm thick and 48.2mm lug to lug, it is closer to a sports watch you would actually wear to the office than a dedicated dive instrument.
The two-tone treatment puts yellow gold PVD on the fluted bezel edge, the crown, the central bracelet link and parts of the dial, over a case that is mostly vertically brushed 316L steel with a polished mid-case bevel. The unidirectional bezel carries a ceramic insert colour-matched to the dial, with golden numerals and a luminous pip at noon. Behind it is a screw-down steel caseback stamped with the brand's hourglass emblem, a wave pattern and the line "Conquering Frontiers since 1737".
Three dials, two languages
There are three versions. The blue and green dials have a sunray brushed finish with a gradient toward the edges, while the black is solid. All three use a two-part sandwich construction, with a lower layer of Super-LumiNova C1 X1 glowing through elongated, recessed indices. The hands and the hourglass logo at 6 o'clock are finished in yellow gold PVD to match the case, and the rectangular day-date window at 3 o'clock sits behind white discs. A small practical touch: the day and the date can each be set to display in English or German.
Power comes from the automatic calibre FLD05, which is a Sellita SW220-1 under Favre Leuba's own designation. It runs at 28,800vph with 26 jewels and holds a fairly ordinary 38 hours of reserve, driving hours, minutes, seconds and the day-date. The movement is the one area where the specification reads as mid-range rather than premium, which the price will have to answer for.
A bracelet that comes off in seconds
The watch ships on an integrated three-link steel bracelet with a yellow gold PVD central link and a butterfly clasp. More usefully, it uses the same quick-change system as the Deep Raider Renaissance, so it will take that line's rubber straps without tools. That flexibility is central to the everyday pitch: a two-tone bracelet for dressier days, a rubber strap for the weekend.
The two-tone Deep Raider Day Date is priced at CHF 2,100, or EUR 2,450, with references 03.20312.110.02.200 for the blue, 00.20312.110.03.210 for the green and 00.20312.110.01.210 for the black. At that figure it lands in a crowded part of the market, up against established Swiss and German divers with similar or better movement specifications. What Favre Leuba is selling is the two-tone look and a genuinely old name, and whether that is enough is the question the price quietly poses.
