Breitling is no longer just Breitling. Under CEO Georges Kern, the company has quietly assembled what it calls a "House of Brands," bringing two long-dormant Swiss names back from the dead: Gallet, founded in 1826, and Universal Genève, founded in 1894.
Gallet's relaunch is set for autumn 2026, timed to coincide with the brand's 200th anniversary. Universal Genève will follow, positioned at the opposite end of the price spectrum. The strategy was previewed at Dubai Watch Week last November, where Breitling built a two-story, 4,000-square-foot pavilion to introduce the concept.
Two brands, two price points
The positioning is deliberate. Gallet will serve as the entry point for the portfolio, with watches priced between CHF 3,000 and CHF 5,000 (roughly $3,400 to $5,600). That puts it in the accessible luxury tier, well below Breitling's core range but above fashion watches.
Universal Genève will sit at the top, in the ultra-luxury segment. The brand was once known as "the watch couturier" for its refined, artistic approach. Its back catalogue includes the Polerouter, designed by a young Gérald Genta, and the Compax chronograph series, both of which still command serious money on the vintage market.
Why it matters
Multi-brand portfolios aren't new in watchmaking. Swatch Group runs dozens of brands across every price tier. Richemont has Cartier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and more under one roof. But Breitling has historically been a single-brand operation, owned by private equity (CVC Capital Partners). Building a house of brands is a different kind of ambition.
The bet is that heritage counts for something. Both Gallet and Universal Genève have real histories, not invented ones. Gallet produced the world's first 24-hour chronograph, the MultiChron Navigator, in the mid-1940s. Universal Genève was a serious manufacture that competed with Omega and Longines for decades before the quartz crisis hollowed it out.
Whether collectors and new buyers care about that history enough to buy a relaunched version is the open question. The watch world is full of revived names that never found traction. But few have had the backing of a company the size of Breitling, or the timing of a 200th birthday.
What to watch
Gallet's first collection is expected at or around Watches and Wonders in the autumn window. Kern has said the brand will have its own design identity, separate from Breitling's aviation-focused aesthetic. No specific models or movement details have been confirmed yet.
For Universal Genève, the timeline is less clear. Kern has described it as a longer-term project, with the first pieces likely arriving in 2027.
Sources
- Breitling Reveals Plans for Gallet, Universal Genève - National Jeweler
- The World's Oldest Watchmaker Is Returning as Breitling's Affordable Sister Brand - Gear Patrol
- Breitling makes bold move by acquiring Gallet ahead of 200th anniversary - The Manual
- Breitling House of Brands - WatchTime
- Gallet's Return, and the Price of Belief - Watch Dossier
